...and these are a few more of my favorite things...

As a follow up to a post from a couple of months ago, I would like to share a few more of my favorite products, sources, and local businesses.  One of the most frequent topics of discussion when I am speaking with clients and students is where do I purchase supplies, and what brands do I prefer?  Here are a few I want to share, in no particular order...

For The Love Of Spice

http://fortheloveofspice.com/

Delicious spice blends for those of you who don't have time to make your own...  Scented sugars, rubs for the grill, super cute tins...  Find Windy at the Gig Harbor Farmer's Market or online.

Bella Kitchen and Home

http://www.bellakitchenessentials.com/

Because I get to teach classes there, and besides, who could possibly entertain without darling radish salt and pepper shakers!

 

Bautista Farms, Mabton, WA

Find them at the 6th Ave Farmer's Market on Tuesday evenings.  I've included them in this list because they sell all kinds of yummy legumes...favas...shelling peas...dried chickpeas...

Jacob's Creamery
www.jacobscreamery.com 
Another 6th Ave Farmer's Market find, I love this creamery for their Reblechon cheese.  It's creamy and delicious, with a hint of blue vein.  Oh my goodness, it's fantastic with bing cherries!

1022 South
http://www.1022south.com/
This Hilltop bar makes the list for their creativity and the fact that they can make a fantastic drink without making it too sweet.  I am not a frequenter of bars, but this is my place of choice if I want to step out.  And their tag line is "Better Living Through Alchemy."  How can you not love that.

Raspberry Brulee

First, a little disclaimer...this recipe is straight off of the Saveur website.  I did not alter, change, add, delete anything because it is perfect the way it is.  I cannot take any credit.  This recipe is one of my absolute favorite desserts.  It is, indeed, perfection through simplicity, and as long as your berries are superb, you will be nothing but thrilled.  I promise.

Raspberry Brûlée

SERVES 8

1 1⁄4 cups heavy cream

3⁄4 cup superfine sugar

7 cups (about 2 lbs.) raspberries 
 (discard any "bruisers")

1⁄3 cup demerara sugar

1. Put the heavy cream into a large bowl and beat until stiff peaks form. Add half of the superfine sugar and beat to stiff peaks again. Gently fold in the remaining superfine sugar until well combined.

2. Add the raspberries to the whipped cream and fold gently to coat. Carefully transfer raspberries to a wide serving dish and liberally strew the top with demerara sugar. Using a kitchen torch, evenly caramelize the sugar (creating "sworls and runs", as Lee puts it) until it gets bubbly and darkened in some spots.

3. Refrigerate brûlée for about 15 minutes to let the sugar harden. Scoop servings into bowls, making sure that each scoop includes some of the crunchy sugar topping. Serve immediately.

For the source: http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Raspberry-Brulee

The Ultimate Pastry Shell

I am here today to share my go-to pastry crust.  The result is flaky, buttery, perfect in every way, and otherwise fantastic.  It's sturdy enough to stand up to almost six cups of quiche filling yet delicate enough to be the perfect base for a tart.  It is not healthy, low fat, or gluten free but it is extremely reliable and I don't think I could do my job as well without it.


The recipe is originally from Thomas Keller (of French Laundry fame, and coincidentally my old boss...).  I believe it was first published in the Bouchon cookbook, though it is now available on the the Food & Wine website (http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/buttery-pastry-shell).  The text here is from that site.  


This recipe is a bit different in method than the standard crust, but if you follow these instructions exactly (in other words, do not deviate, and for the love of whomever, do not skip the part about draping the crust over the sides while blind baking!), you will end up with a pastry that trumps most.  

For 1- 9" shell

2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted, plus more for dusting
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 sticks chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/4 cup ice water
Canola oil, for brushing

-In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle, mix 1 cup of the flour with the salt. At low speed, add the butter pieces, a handful at a time. When all of the butter has been added, increase the speed to medium and mix until the butter is completely incorporated. Reduce the speed to low and add the remaining 1 cup of flour just until blended. Mix in the water just until thoroughly incorporated. Flatten the pastry into an 8-inch disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour or overnight.
-Set the ring of a 9-inch springform pan on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper, leaving the hinge open. Brush the inside of the ring with oil.
-Dust the pastry on both sides with flour. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the pastry to a 16-inch round, about 3/16 inch thick. Carefully roll the pastry around the rolling pin and transfer to the prepared ring, pressing it into the corners. Trim the overhanging pastry to 1 inch and press it firmly against the outside of the ring. Use the trimmings to fill any cracks, saving some scraps for later patching. Refrigerate the shell for 20 minutes.
-Preheat the oven to 375°. Line the pastry shell with a 14-inch round of parchment paper; fill the shell with dried beans or rice. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the edge of the dough is lightly browned. Remove the parchment and beans and continue baking the pastry shell for about 15 minutes longer, or until richly browned on the bottom. Transfer the baking sheet to a rack and let the pastry cool. Fill any cracks with the reserved pastry dough.


If you want to proceed and make a quiche, this is the base I use, adding a generous two cups of seasonal sauteed veggies to the mix.

3/4 cup shredded cheese
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
6 large eggs, lightly beaten
Freshly grated nutmeg

-Preheat the oven to 325°. Scatter 1/4 cup of the cheese and half of the veggies evenly over the bottom of the Buttery Pastry Shell. In a blender, mix half each of the milk, cream and eggs and season with 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt, 1/8 teaspoon of pepper and a pinch of nutmeg at high speed until frothy, about 1 minute. Pour the custard into the pastry shell. Top with another 1/4 cup of cheese and the remaining veg. Make a second batch of custard with the remaining milk, cream and eggs, plus the same amount of salt, pepper and nutmeg as before and pour into the shell. Scatter the remaining 1/4 cup of cheese on top.

2. -Bake the quiche for about 1 1/2 hours, or until richly browned on top and the custard is barely set in the center. Let cool in the pan until very warm.
3. -Using a serrated knife, cut the pastry shell flush with the top of the pan. Carefully lift the springform pan ring off the quiche. Cut the quiche into wedges, transfer to plates and serve warm.  You can also chill or freeze this quiche with good results.  
4. 
   
5. One quiche of this dimension will make about 12 servings.

...these are a few of my favorite things...

Many of you, at one time or another, have asked me for advice on the best place to buy spices, find good produce, dine out, or track down the best meats.  I thought I'd do a blog post highlighting a few things that make me just giddy thinking about them...  I'll do this every once in a while until all of my secrets are out : )

Big John's PFI ~ http://www.bigjohnspfiseattle.com/ ~ 206.682.2022

This is, hands down, my best source for bulk spices, flours, legumes, and good Mediterranean products.  It's one of those places that I walk in to with a specific list and end up with a shopping cart full...  They have very good olive oil, cheeses, bulk olives and feta (bring a container from some brine), and lots of bulk chocolate (Callebaut, Guittard, and some new single-origin brands).  PFI is kind of hard to find the first time, but once you discover it, you will consider it a hidden gem as well!  Besides, they have perfect food phrases painted on all of the store pillars...

Tacoma Farmer's Markets ~ http://www.tacomafarmersmarket.com/

Local produce and products abound at the 6th Ave and Broadway markets.  For me, the 6th Ave market is the most convenient market in the area since it's in the evening on a Tuesday! 

Hitchcock Restaurant ~ http://hitchcockrestaurant.com/ ~ 206.201.3789

This Bainbridge Island treasure is my current restaurant crush.  We've been up a couple of times and had the chef's tasting (you say how much you want to spend, they bring you the best dishes of the night); the quality surpasses any meals that I've had in Washington outside of Seattle.  Chef Brendan is definitely rocking the house and challenging us all to bring up the culinary scene in the south / west sound.

Minterbrook Oyster Company ~ http://www.minterbrookoyster.com/ ~ 253.857.5251

This ultra successful oyster farm is my best source for shellfish- clams, mussels, oysters.  I love being able to stop in and order a few dozen, then head over to the warehouse and have the staff sort them right there for me.  This is one of the most successful operations in the country (if not the world), and they are also espouse a strong philosophy of water quality preservation and sustainability.   

Zen Can Cook ~ http://www.zencancook.com/

For goodness sake, just take one look at this guy's food and photography, and if you can't tell why this is my favorite blog, I'm not sure I can help you...  He is a private chef in New York City and I am completely jealous of his food (and camera)!

Caramelized Fennel with Goat Cheese

For those of you who have been reading my blog for a while, the next few sentences may seem redundant as I am sure I've said these words before...perhaps in this exact order...  The book "Plenty" by Yotam Ottolenghi is awesome!  It's a vegetarian cookbook for the sake of vegetables, not to shun meat or support diet fads or whatever.  The author is not vegetarian himself, but he gives the veggies highlighted in his book the kind of care that most chefs reserve for meats and well, meats...  The recipe below is a recent favorite of mine; I love fennel in general (that almost rhymes!), and we have some great local goat cheese producers in the area, so this is a perfect way to bring the two together.

Caramelized Fennel with Goat Cheese
(adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi’s "Plenty")
yield: 4 servings

4 fennel bulbs
2 T unsalted butter, divided (preferably Organic Valley Pasture Butter, kind of because it's organic, but mostly because it's the butter version of heaven)
3 T olive oil, divided
2 T granulated sugar
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
sea salt to taste
1 garlic clove, minced
2 T fresh dill, minced
1/2 cup fresh, local, goat cheese, broken into chunks or spooned into a pretty shape
zest of 1 lemon

Remove the branch and root ends from each fennel bulb, keeping a few lacy fronds to garnish with. Cut the bulb into 1/2-inch thick slices.

Melt 1 T butter with 1 1/2 T oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add half the sliced fennel in a single layer (don’t crowd the pan or the vegetables won't caramelize - this will take a couple of batches). Cook without moving until just brown, then turn and brown the other side. Remove and reserve on a plate. Repeat with the remaining butter, oil, and fennel slices. Add the sugar, fennel seeds, and a pinch each of salt to the pan. Cook for 30 seconds, stirring constantly, then add the fennel back to the pan and cook undisturbed for another 1-2 minutes to caramelize. Return to the plate to cool. Gently mix the cooled fennel, garlic, and dill together. Spoon onto a decorative plate and top with the goat cheese, lemon zest, fennel fronds, and an extra pour of your favorite organic, extra virgin, unfiltered olive oil.

Strozzapreti with Duck Egg-Herb Carbonara

Now, let me ask you this:  If someone handed you fifty-four duck eggs, what would you say?  And, then assuming you accepted them, what exactly would you do with them?  Add in these two factors- duck eggs are at least twice the size of chicken eggs plus twice as rich, and you have at least two dozen chicken eggs in your cooler at home.  Thoughts?  Opinions anyone?  No?

I was presented with this exact issue this weekend.  And for those of you that know me personally, you already know that I accepted all of them, with glee and gushing thanks, not considering the two factors presented in the third sentence above.  So it begins...I managed to give away quite a few of them to unsuspecting neighbors, and am about half way through the rest.

The first recipe I made was a chipotle scramble with green onion and tomato on buttered toast.  It was pretty good, but it didn't necessarily highlight the unique richness of the duck egg.  The second item I made with the eggs was a play on pasta carbonara from the Herbfarm Cookbook.  It uses a whole bunch of herbs (surprise!) instead of pancetta, and I adjusted it slightly to accommodate what I had available.


Strozzapreti with Duck Egg-Herb Carbonara
yield: 4 servings

• 
  
  • 4 large egg yolks  (or two duck egg yolks)
  • 1/3 cup heavy cream  (or some awesome unfiltered organic extra-virgin olive oil)
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh chervil if available
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh chives
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 12 ounces dried strozzapreti or fusilli
  • 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • 
    
  • Directions
  • 1. Setting up. Fill a large (8-quart) pot with water, add 1 1/2 tablespoons of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Whisk together the egg yolks and cream (olive oil) in a large stainless-steel mixing bowl. Stir in the herbs, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a generous grind of pepper.
  • 2. Pasta. When the water is at a boil, stir in the pasta and cook at a steady boil until tender but still firm. While the pasta is cooking, warm the egg yolk mixture by briefly holding the bowl over the pot of boiling water and whisking rapidly. Heat the mixture just to lukewarm; don't let the eggs cook. When the pasta is done, drain and add it to the egg mixture. Sprinkle with cheese and toss well. The egg yolks will cook from the heat of the pasta and form a thick sauce.

Blue Hill at Stone Barns

I have to say that the meal I had at Blue Hill at Stone Barns this past weekend ranked in the top two meals I have ever eaten, and may quite possibly be the top one.  The other meal was at The French Laundry, on the last night of my internship, when the sous chef's sat me down in the chef's box and fed me until I could not eat another bite...maybe it's a tie...

Before I get to the menu, I'll share a couple of thoughts.  First, I really enjoyed the fact that the restaurant is located in an agricultural area with a working farm that the guests are encouraged to tour.  Many people grow up and live in suburbia or in cities, far removed from the food production system.  Even though the farms at Blue Hill are not exactly an accurate representation of our modern industrial agriculture, I think there is still great value in people getting to see a pig in the mud, a carrot in the ground, and a barn full of chickens.  It all looks quite different than these "products" do at the grocery store, wrapped in cellophane, and very much un-alive.  Second, I thought we received better, more attentive service here than at many "higher" rated restaurants.  The waiter:guest ratio was outstanding and their attention to detail was greatly appreciated.  Lastly, the way the chef composes meals is very interesting.  You choose the number of courses (5, 8, or 12), give any dietary restrictions/preferences, and they take it from there.  As we observed service as the night went on, we noticed that while there were some common dishes, almost every table had at least one unique dish.  This must be a huge burden on the prep staff, but it meant that every meal is completely different from the one before.  And, every table has a specific experience that is not shared by the rest of the night's guests.  That's pretty darn cool.  Now, on to the good stuff.  Please forgive the photography; I was using my phone, trying to be inconspicuous, then the sun went down, and I didn't want to be "that table" using the flash every time a course arrived...! 

The View From My Seat

Spring Vegetables (carrot, radish, red lettuce, bloomsdale spinach, icicle radish) brushed with Vinaigrette, and Sunchoke Puree Soup with Ale Foam

Baby Turnips with Brown-Butter Butter (yes, they are set in shot glasses over a bowl of dirt) 

Pea Shoots with Citrus Vinaigrette (each table gets it's own set of shears)

"Dried Vegetables" (sheets of carrot and parsnip, kale and sweet potato chips suspended on metal [bronze?] branches)

Fish Balls on Lettuce with Phytoplankton

Beet Yogurt with Homemade Grape Nuts and Grated Beet Sugar, Pig's Heart and Liver Terrine with Salt and Bittersweet Chocolate

Mullet with Crispy Skin, Purple Mizuna, Watermelon Pickle Brunoise (I think...), Watermelon Molasses

Donko Mushrooms (the first flush of shiitake in the spring), Ramp and Walnut Marmalade, Spring and Micro-Greens with Blossoms served  on a polished cross section of a tree

Grilled Ramps and Spinach with Chorizo Vinaigrette, Honey Almond Puree, and a Dry Vinaigrette of Shaved Lardo and Immature Eggs

Brioche with Spinach and Currants, Cracked Black Pepper, and Fresh Ricotta

The Ricotta of Fifteen Pampered Cows

An "Onion That Want's to be a Shallot," Charred, served with Yogurt and Pumpkin Seeds, Greens Vinaigrette, and Curried Almonds

Parsnip Steak with Beet Ketchup and some sort of cayenne-black pepper sauce

Butter Service: sweet corn salt, parsnip and sage salt, whipped lardo (this had the texture of soft meringue), local butter

At this point, it became too dark for the photos to be of any worth, so I will simply list further items below:

Soft Poached Hen's Egg, Cheesy Potato Puree, Fried Hops Shoots
~
Goose Egg Pasta, Balsamic Reduction
~
Pork Loin and Belly with Salsify and Hazelnut
~
Seared Sea Scallop (the size of my fist, I swear...), Lobster, Mussels, with a Parsley "Chowder" sauce
~
San Andreas with Three-Apple Gelee, some Creamy Gooey Cheese with a Cinnamon Poached Crab Apple, Pretzel Bread
~
Poached Slice of Apple, Apple Brunoise, Honey Gelee, Some Sorbet, Candied Fennel
~
Chocolate Honey Torte, Beet Gel, Candied Beet, Yogurt Sorbet, Chocolate Sticks
~
Mignardise:
Chocolates with Pear Brandy, Honey-Chocolate Marshmallows, Flax Candy, Chocolate Sables
~
Lemongrass Infusion